THE LIST
Megève
Ascending toward Megève, the experience is instantly restorative—a deep breath into a landscape blanketed in heavy, pristine snow. The true current however, is its Haute-Savoie food scene. It's clean, authentic, and soulful. This is not just a ski town; it’s an exploration of great food and authentic connection, waiting to unfold.
Driving up into the French Alps en route to Megève the snow is heavy on the ground, it has completely coated the spruce and silver fir trees. One can feel like Christmas has come already or maybe the decorations have been left on the tree, a frozen moment in time. The most festive tree however is in Mègeve’s medieval town square, the Swarovski crystal decorated Christmas tree, a real pine that stands a towering forty feet high. Around the square the sound of jangling bells which hang from the horse drawn carts can be heard, skiers trudging back awkwardly in their boots from the slopes, bars bustle with people enjoying their après ski with steaming cups of vin chaud. This is Megève, a true winter wonderland!
The town has a captivating old world charm, skiers and hikers have been making good use of the Rochbrune Massif since the Rothschild family put it on the map in the 1920s. With spectacularly expansive vistas of the Alps, the Megève resort is one of the most awe inspiring places to ski with over 400km of pistes. Most importantly it’s one of the best regions in France to eat, also.
The restaurant culture here reigns supreme, the Haute-Savoie region is renowned not only for its local produce but for some of the most serious restaurants in France.
A great example of this is Emmanuel Renaut’s fabled Flocons de Sel. This three Michelin star dining room burns brightly and is reason alone to come to the town. Emmanuel Renaut’s use of alpine ingredients in his cuisine, where the forest has become a part of his pantry has earn’t him the nickname the mountain chef. Game birds, local fish, foraged wild mushrooms and even snow itself feature in his nature’s table inspired menu. Dishes like chasseur Français a venison fillet with blackberries, blackcurrants and fir from the forest exude great confidence, balance and a true deftness of touch. His flaky, deeply flavoured game pie is legendary and not to be missed. I also recommend asking to see his cellar, including a remarkable collection of rare Chartreuse bottles from the ages.
Emmanuel is an avid skier so it makes sense he has also created one of the best places for lunch on the slopes. Just off the Forestier ski run you will find Chalet Le Forestier de Rochebrune. This chic little chalet somewhat resembles a gingerbread house and sits deep in the snow with bright red and white gingham tablecloths. Rustic Savoie dishes like tartiflette with large rounds of bubbling Reblochon layered on top of piping hot speck and potatoes or a decadent version of raclette Savoyarde are on the menu. An absolute highlight are the quenelles, locally caught pike which is whipped into a soufflé and spooned into quenelles de brochet, served on an oval cast iron dish and dotted with morel mushrooms and a bisque like sauce. A clear favourite amongst the skivvy wearing lunch crowd. To finish a heady baba au rhum presented in a small glass jar, tiny brioche swimming in a pool of rum with whipped Chantilly cream on the side.
Fermes de Marie chalet and alpine outlook; Macaroni with truffle and country ham from Les Fermes de Marie (below)
Another must try on the slopes is the humble Sous les Freddy a perfect ski in and out prix fixe menu. With an extraordinary view of Mont Blanc and ridiculously good mountain food, the menu offers just one set plate of food plus a dessert. A “you get what you get and you don’t get upset” affair. It really is the most perfectly orchestrated plate of what the region is about, robust and made with love. On the plate is a selection of home made charcuterie, salad, generous chunks of Reblochon, Tomme Fermière d’Alpage but the hero is the beignets de pommes de terre (a turbo charged golden Savoie version of a rösti). Run by a husband and wife team this kitchen exudes the charm and warmth you only feel on a alpage in the Alps. Note of caution this refuge is only accessible via a steep black piste. Ski too fast down this run and you just might just ski through their tiny restaurant, if this happens reach for a rösti on your way past. Always remember how brave you were to eat here.
Another magical spot again with outrageous views of Mont Blanc but no black runs to conquer is Le Tremplin de la Croix. I often see the true skier gourmands here, people who ski to eat. With a concise wine list that features one of my favourite Savoie producers Fabien Trosset and his ominously named cuvée Avalanche, a sublime local Mondeuse. If you hold your wine glass up towards Mont Blanc on a bluebird day it’s possible to frame Europe’s highest peak in your glass, now that’s a great photo! Le Tremplin’s tarte aux myrtilles is an unctuous regional blueberry tart a classic that has be tried.
For something a bit more chi-chi restaurant L’Alpette has 360 degree panoramic views of the valley with some fabulous people watching and wonderful fondue to boot. A chic, fun lunch spot with distinct red and white farmhouse shutters and luxuriously cosy fur chairs; this is where Moncler meets Bogner over numerous magnums of rose.
Heading down the slopes on the last run with sore legs, wind-swept cheeks and in need of a sauna my recommendation would be to head straight to Les Fermes des Marie owned by the small luxury hotelier family the Sibuet’s. They are renowned for their flair with alpine interiors, cosy comfort, and superbly executed cuisine. The group have several hotels in Megève but Les Fermes des Marie with its authentic aesthetic and superb service is a firm favourite. The hotel is a hamlet like collection of chalets and farmhouses with truckloads of Hyyge. Alpine cow bells, sheepskin chairs, deer mounts and plaid drapery adorn the hotel. Executive Chef Nicolas Sintes oversees the brigade of chefs who all wear toque blanche hats as they work the dining rooms open fire rotisserie. His alpine lake bouilee, a fish soup made from local lake fish is a play on bouillabaisse, it was so good I wanted to order it daily, add the famous mâche salad with black truffle and its easy to see why this hotel dining room is always full. Breakfast here is a triumph whether it’s a made to order omelette, local organic yoghurt or a slice of Beaufort cheese the elegant offering is a perfect way to start the day before heading up the pistes.
There are few ski resorts in France as soulful and steeped in natural beauty as Mègeve, be it hiking up the alpage in summer through the lush pastures or telemark skiing in the shadows of Mont Blanc in winter. For me however the strongest drawcard is its food and wine culture. Megève represents the best of Savoie produce, its restaurants, chefs and community resonate with an authenticity rarely seen. What a town. Every time I depart on the drive back down the Alps I begin to plan my return.
